Past two weeks....

So, after Paris, we've been in Ariccia for the past two weeks. We have been all over Italy again, and finally made our trip (last Thursday) to the Vatican City. Susanna, who is one of the historians at the Palazzo Chigi, was our tour guide for the day. One of the great things about our teachers, who have become our friends, are our tour guides. Also, since they live and work in Ariccia and Rome, they have connections all over the city. One of Susanna's friends is a restorer in the Vatican and he was working on an ancient mosaic. We got to go behind the scenes and see them working on the intricate design to preserve the original tiles. We met the restorer and got to watch his tedious work as he chiseled the tiny replacement tiles into the exact shape so they would fit exactly in the tiny missing spot of the mosaic.

We also had the privilidge of having Marco, who is a WW2 expert because he lived here through it all, take us to Anzio to see where the allied forces landed.

There is a beautiful United States cemetery that we visited, it was pouring down rain, but we still among the thousands of white marble crosses looking at all of the names. It felt so good to see the American flag flying.

We made our way to Frascati for lunch, and tried to buy some wine but everything was closed. (In Italy, most small towns close for one day out of the week, and they are all also closed on Sunday).
Today was the best day of the past two weeks. We visited a local olive harvesting farm just about ten minutes away. They don't just harvest their own olives, but the locals bring their olives there and pay them to press it (hot or cold press) into oil. We got to go into the olive orchard and see the ladies stripping the olives from the trees with their little hand held plastic rakes (they looked like toys we used to play with in the sandbox). They even let us pick some! They drag large net tarps underneath each tree to gather the olives.

Afterwards, we went into a large warehouse where they were putting the olives into large vats, separating them into different crates based on how ripe they were, then pouring them into a crusher, then to the presser, etc....
The fresh oil is BRIGHT green, and so much lighter than the oil we are used to buying in the states. Also, the unfiltered oil (which tastes the best) is very cloudy, and we were able to buy some (which we weren't expecting, since it wasn't a retail place). They best part was the bruschetta they had for us at the end. They toast their bread over an open fire, then pour the fresh oil over the bread. We tasted the oil from the hot press and the cold press, I liked the cold press most. It was such a neat experience, unbelievable everyday life for these people.

Tomorrow we are headed to Venice for the weekend!! I'll be home in 3 weeks and a day!!!

Paris!!

Early last Saturday morning, Margaret, Ali, and I boarded our "budget airline" Ryanair flight to Paris. I was so excited that I could hardly sleep the night before because, for as long as I can remember, I've dreamed of going to Paris. The flight was fine, but it felt weird to have vendors going up and down the isles selling perfume and other tax free goods, not to mention the fact that the plane itself looked like it had been built with yellow and blue legos. The view from the window was beautiful, and as we were preparing for landing, the pilot spoke these words (in english, then italian, then french) " As you can see from your window, there are extreme levels of fog on the ground and there have already been two unsuccessful landings, we will circle the airport and let you know when we have a plan." So... all I could think was "What does an 'unsuccessful' landing mean??!?" We circled the airport for what seemed like forever and he then informed us we were going to land in Brussels, Belgium and would have transportation back to the Paris airport (he forgot to mention that it would be six hours later). So... long story short, and an even longer day of traveling we finally made it to the City of Lights. It was worth every minute of our travel complications and when we got to our hotel, we were all three giddy.
We had an amazing meal, and FINALLY got some good grilled chicken!

The next three days were spent wandering the streets of Paris, up the Champs Elysee, to the Iffel tower, along the river, etc. etc. etc. We went to Ile St. Louis one day and had cafe and crepes just in time for a cold winter drizzle. The weather was cloudy, but that's how I imagined Paris to be. The french know how to cook, and we took full advantage of their talents and their wine. The little cafes and restaurants are just like you see in pictures and the waiters are even like I'd always thought they'd be. It was the best place to be when anticipating something because time goes by so fast.
My anticipation ceased on Wednesday morning when Caleb arrived IN Paris!!! He really did! He bought a ticket the week before and met me in Paris! Ali and Margaret headed to Austria on Wednesday morning and I headed to the airport to meet him. I couldn't wait to see him and I know the lady at the information counter was SO annoyed with me because I kept asking the status of the flight. I read every english magazine in the airport store to pass the time and when he finally came through baggage claim, it was the greatest feeling in the world.

We spent the next three days in Paris exploring the city. Paris is so huge and every part of it is different so I hardly saw the same thing twice, plus we had so much fun figuring out the metro. We'd stop for hot chocolate (and coffee)(and wine) and end up talking for hours.

Caleb loves hot chocolate, and they make it right in France- at one cafe, they brought a little thing of hot milk with a little thing of hot melted dark chocolate and an empty mug and you poured it together yourself!
The city is so beautiful at night so after dinner it was nice to walk around the busy streets.

One night we ate at an Egyptian restaurant which was very different, no one spoke english, and the served cinnamon on the couscous! We didn't actually mean to eat there, we thought it was french restaurant from the outside, but the food was really good!
Friday morning we walked to Luxembourg gardens which were the most beautiful gardens I've ever seen.


On Friday night at 7pm, our overnight train to Rome left.... without us. We were on the way to the train station but got stuck in rush hour traffic AND it was the day before All Saints Day which is one of the biggest holidays here. Bottom line... we missed our train. I was NOT happy because I thought we were going to have to buy 2 more overnight tickets (which aren't cheap) and I definitely didn't want to make the 18 hour train ride during the day. Luckily, when I bought the tickets, I had flexible options, which means I could reschedule after I missed it. Thank goodness. So, we had an extra night in Paris and caught the train on Saturday night to Rome!
We arrived in Rome around 10am Sunday morning. We had planned to have 2 days there, but because of the train mishaps, this was our only day, and Caleb was determined (as was I) to see everything. We jumped on the train to Ariccia and he got to see my world here- the hotel, the palace, the little restaurants where we eat, etc. We had lunch (pasta, bruschetta, wine and a biscotti from the local pastry shop) in Ariccia and took the train back to Rome where we did a complete tour of the city in about five hours. Colessum, Roman Forum, Via del Corso, Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Piazza del Popolo, etc. He LOVED the gelato (he had it twice!). We had dinner outside on Piazza del Popolo. **Remind one of us to tell you the story about the men with the roses.. hilarious, but too long to type**
He left the next morning and I headed back to Ariccia. We had the best time together, and I want to live in Paris!!

Heaven on Earth

If you know me at all, you won't be surprised to know that I spent the weekend at a bed & breakfast in Tuscany by myself. It was the highlight of my trip so far. I don't even know or how to begin to describe everything, but I will give it my best shot.
It is called Le Due Volpi, and the owners, Heidi and Lorenzo, have the gift of hospitality to say the least. She is from South Africa originally, but has lived in Tuscany for years and years. Lorenzo doesn't speak a lick of English, but I was surprised at how much of his Italian I understood. They are both in 60's or 70's and bought the place several years back, fixed it up for a few years, then welcomed guests with wide open arms.
I took the hour long train ride from Firenze on Friday afternoon to the little tuscan town of Veccio, where Heidi, picked me up. She was so easy to talk to and loved hearing about all we have been doing. The roads were one way, and when we veered off on a little gravel road, I knew we were close. We arrived at the villa right at sunset, and everything was golden. I couldn't believe I was there.

Their little westie named Snowy greated me at the gate, and Lorenzo was sweeping off the patio. He took my suitcase and they showed me to my room, the best one they have, at the top of the villa overlooking the valley on both sides of the house. I had a kingsize bed all to myself. Everything was decorated like a tuscan country villa you would imagine.. Hardwood floors, stone walls, white old lace bedspread and country dressers and tables. Windows open all the time.
After I settled in, I went down to the kitchen where Heidi was fixing dinner and we talked about life in Tuscany. There were two other couples there, that weekend, one from Australia and one from London. The Aussie couple, Rob and Lou, were there for dinner that night. When dinner was ready, we headed out to the little outside enclosed patio with a view overlooking the valley. We had wonderful pasta, then steak, then salad, then dessert, with Lorenzo's favorite wine. Since he is a local, he is a very selective with his wine, meat, oil, etc. The steak was so good, especially since it is hard to find good meat at a restaurant.
I woke up Saturday morning to Lorenzo going in and out of the side door to the patio room as he set out breakfast. He is the early riser between the two, and it was so sweet that he was letting her sleep. They had a REAL coffee pot and I could not WAIT for a cup of regular coffee.
After breakfast, I went to town with Heidi and Lorenzo to get food at the market and to the bakery because Italians only eat fresh baked bread. My favorite tuscan dish the whole week before was rubillita, a thick italian vegetable and bean soup made with bread, so Heidi decided she would teach me out to make it.

We headed back for lunch and Heidi, Lorenzo, and I ate spinach pasta and salad at the kitchen table by the fire. After lunch, we went for a walk up the mountain behind the villa. Lorenzo brought his apple picker and we picked the brightest red apples I've ever seen as well as chestnuts and figs.

Heidi showed me some of the most beautiful views. All I could think was how much I wished Caleb was there.
In the late afternoon, I curled up on the sofa by the fire and wrote a few letters before dinner. Lorenzo was roasting the chestnuts outside and we snacked on a few. I had never tried one and was surprised at the taste, but I really like them!

At dinner, the two other couples and Heidi and Lorenzo and I talked about the differences in our cultures and how we wished we could live in Tuscany. We had pasta with mushrooms and pork roast. It was so nice to not have a rushed meal and to be able to sit and enjoy the company of new people with amazing stories.
Sunday morning I woke up early and Lorenzo was already up and had made breakfast for the couple from London who had left at 6 a.m. Afterwards, Heidi, Lorenzo, Rob, Lou, and I rode to a neighboring town to the monthly flea market. It was so neat and there was handmade lace everywhere. I know what you are thinking mom, but I had no idea what was good and what wasn't. It was so neat to see all the little italian women bargaining for their new found treasures.
We rode back to the villa around noon and I already had a pit in my stomach because I knew I had to leave soon. We ate outside on the front porch and had rubillita, proschutto, and salad, and cheese with honey (a Lorenzo idea) which was so good. We talked around the table for a while and they wanted to hear about Caleb and how we got engaged. Their jaws kept dropping. They ask if I ever get tired of telling it.. of course not!

On the ride to the train station, Lou and I were exchanging emails and promising to keep in touch. I wasn't too sad to leave Heidi and Lorenzo, because I've already planned another weekend in November.

Pisa, Siena, and Firenze.

On the way back from Cinque Terre, we stopped in Pisa to see the famous leaning tower. The truth is, it looks like it is leaning alot more in person than it does in pictures.

The street on the way to the tower was lined with market vendors and tons of tourists making the silly pose to create the optical illusion that they are holding up the tower with their hands, feet, back, whatever. There was a marathon going on while we were there and I saw a man running barefooted.
We were back in Ariccia last Sunday, and left on Tuesday for Siena and Firenze. Siena, definitely a hidden treasure, was one of my favorite small towns I've seen. Our hotel was the nicest we've stayed in and our window opened to the street below where a string quartet was set up playing music for people's pocket change.

We spent the day there shopping and had an amazing wine tasting at a wonderful restaurant and went down to their cellar (picture above) where they have every bottle of Italian wine made in Italy. (Hus you would have been in HEAVEN!).


We ate in the piazza del Campo, where the famous horse race takes place in the summer. The entire piazza is lined with restaurants and outdoor seating. Besides the light from the moon and the clock tower, there isn't really a need for electric lights, which made it feel so like a dream! We left early the next morning for Prato and visited the textile factory there. Afterwards, we had a private lunch by a famous chef Chef Francesco Ciarapica in an outdoor dining room.

We had the Tuscan five course mean with different wine with each serving. Dad, you should be proud to know that I ate rabbit! (It is really hare, and the italian word for it is lepre.) It was divine, and we were all so sleepy on the way to Firenze. I had been looking forward to Firenze since we got to Italy. Our hotel was in an awesome location, and since everything in Firenze is walking distance, we saw everything. We did a walking tour on our ipods to the Duomo, Piazza del Campo, the Republica, the Ponte Vecchio, the Ufizzi, etc., but spent most of our time shopping and eating the wonderful tuscan food.

I loved the leather markets and had the best time bargaining for the wonderful leather. We toured the Salvadore Ferragamo museum on Sunday morning and the Medici costume gallery, then split for the weekend.

The Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre literally means "Five Terrace," exactly what it is.... Five precious little towns connected by a hiking trail. We stayed in Riomagiorre, the first of the five towns. We left on the bus on Friday morning very early and arrived around two. When we stepped off the bus, it smelled like the beach, salty and humid.

After checking in to our hostle (yes,), we walked around the little town and in and out of the little shops where you could purchase typical (and overpriced) beachtown items: beach towels, sunscreen, hats, shells, etc. Several of the stores were playing beach music and everything was so relaxedWe had dinner all together at a little restaurant similar to the old Oyster House on the causeway. . Cinque terre is known for their pesto, which was SO divine.

The next morning, Ali, Margaret, and I decided we were going to complete the 10km hike to all five towns. Most people do the first 3, and take the train to the 5th, but we were determined.

It was absloutely beautiful, and even though the hike between the last two towns was difficult, each little town we made it to made it worth going to the next. The Cinque Terre is a national park, so it is very well preserved. It is not a ritzy town at all, mostly backpackers and hostles, very different from Capri. The views were amazing, but we kept getting passed by 60+ year old hard core hikers. We laughed so hard. When we would walk past the marina in each little town, it felt sort of like home with the smell of boat motors and sound of sea gulls.

When we finally made it to the fifth town, I couldn't resist jumping in the freezing cold Mediterranean Sea.
It was so cold and so salty, but felt SO good.

Umbria and pottery.

Monday we went to the town of Orvieto in Umbria, a tiny little medieval town, one that seems like it hasn't changed in hundreds of years. All of the doors to the shops that line the streets are propped open with each little vendor standing gaurd. Precious little alleys led to more of the same, and every turn was picturesque.

Below the entire city are thousands of caves that were used by the Etruscans. We got to explore two of the caves, nothing special... what you would expect a cave to look like. The neat thing in Orvieto is that most houses have caves below them, and if you own the house, you own the cave. There is also a beautiful cathedral in the center.
Wednesday we drove back to Umbria (north of Rome and the Lazio region) and visited the town of Deruta, known for their pottery.

We had time to explore the town and buy some beautiful pottery. I made one unexpected purchase, but it will have a wonderful story to go along... I was wondering in and out of the shops, each seeming exactly the same as the one before after awhile, until I stepped into one that seemed more crowded. I soon realized that it was the family who owned the shop. There were the grand-parents, their children, and their grandchildren (who were in their 30's I'd guess). So the grandparents were well into their seventies. The grandmother was very "with it" but the grandfather was borderline senile. He kept picking up pieces of pottery to be repramanded by whoever seemed to be "on shift" with him. This went on the entire time I was in the shop. I picked up a beautiful platter that seemed different from the rest because the colors on the edge were sort of smeared. The grand-father hurried up to me and in his thick italian accent he communicated to me that HE had painted it. He couldn't have been more proud that the platter I liked was his masterpiece. It had dust on the bottom, clearly not in high demand, but I just couldn't bring myself to put it down. His grand daughter, who was sitting at the pottery wheel, came over to explain to me (in English) that he had indeed painted that piece. I think his wife and children were confused why I would buy that one, but his ear-to-ear grin told me that it was completely worth it. I absolutely love it, and he was so excited when I asked if I could take his picture holding the platter.

We got to tour the pottery factory. It was amazing to see everything they do by hand.

In afternoon we toured the the Basilica of St. Fransis of Assisi. The church and the view were beautiful.

We had a tour by a monk from Buffalo, NY which was nice because he spoke fluent english. I never though I'd appreciate an easy conversation in english that much!

It's just like the pictures..

The weekend in Sorrento was my favorite trip so far. The drive along the windy roads on the side of the cliffs overlooking the sea was so beautiful. The cliffs, the rocks, the crystal clear(really) water, the boats coming into the harbors of each tiny little town, the tiny wooden boats painted all sorts of primary colors with their oars relaxed, and the precious little stucco villas built practically into the cliffs could create a palate of a thousand different shades of yellow and orange, all proved that it is true... It really does look like the pictures in the magazines!

Sorrento was beautiful, we walked to an overlook as soon as we got there just in time for the sunset. We saw several new brides having their picture made with the sunset in the background..
We had a wonderful dinner where the waiter spoke english and on our way back to the hotel, there was a parade in the center, so we followed (and joined) the parade for a while.. I love small towns... especially italian ones.

The next morning we woke up early and bought a ticket to take the ferry to the island of Capri.

When we stepped off of the boat, I couldn't believe I was actually seeing with my own eyes. It looks just like the pictures in the coffee table books and the magazines. Perfect little streets, tourists, lots of shops, fishing boats... A few of us took a train to the top of the island to the actual town of Capri. Everyone there looked famous, we found out later that Richard Gere was there but we didn't see him. We walked to the end of a little street that had an overlook at the end next to a hotel where Churchill used to bring people.


Words don't begin to justify the view.
We spent the entire day at Capri, shopping and looking at the coral jewelry that Capri is known for, then took the late ferry in.
The next day we spent in Sorrento, looking at the shops and the leather market. I love to bargin prices with vendors even if I don't buy anything... haha. I know my dad is laughing.